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australia's nature coast

4.24.2007

Wednesday, a week ago, we said goodbye to the Mudge family in Queenbean (photo above) and drove through the Clyde Mnts. down to Malua Bay on the south coast of New South Wales. This area of Australia is known as the "Eurobodalla nature coast." We stopped in the small town of Bungendore to visit the woodworks gallery that features Australian crafts. I bought a wooden cutting board and a bowl. I have been very diligent at supporting the Australian economy.

 

Then we drove through the mountains of gum (eucalyptus) trees to a town called Braidwood where we stopped for coffee (a skinny mugaccino) at the Lolly Shop. The forest in this area is all gum trees, not pine like we're used to in CA. Braidwood is about half way between Canberra and Malua Bay. After descending the mountains we eventually came to the ocean at Batemans Bay, which is about 15 minutes north of Malua Bay. These seaside towns are very reminiscent of the Balboa Island/Corona del Mar area - probably more like it was 50 years ago - with more hills, more space between houses and a lot fewer people. Great views of the ocean and VERY pleasant. Kathleen took me to a town just south of here, South Rosedale, where Nicole Kidman just bought a holiday (vacation) home overlooking the ocean and we had another photo opportunity that I will spare you.

 

I've met a number of the locals - many Aussies who have retired and moved to this little slice of heaven, and they have been quite animated and fun and have introduced me to all kinds of Australian beer and wine. It's sort of like people retiring to FL from NYC. Canberra's only two hours away so lots of public servants (government workers) retire to this area. Its climate is much more temperate than Canberra's and in fact one of the best climates in the world.

 

Saturday I got to go to Birdland Animal Park, my favorite tourist spot of this trip so far. Karen the animal keeper was incredible friendly and fun and was fit and tan like a female Paul Hogan with that wonderful Aussie accent. After feeding Boris, the koala, she heard MY accent and started chatting to me. She was very pleased to hear I was from California and we quickly became mates. "Wait until these people leave this cage and I'll take you in to meet Boris," she muttered under her breath. And so I got to have my own little audience with him. I patted him on his soft little head and we posed for some photos together (photo below - I know I look scary). Then Kathleen and I took the train ride around the park and saw owls, all kinds of birds and peacocks, wombats, kangaroos, wallabies, deer, echidnas (like a little porcupine with a very long nose) numerous other unique Aussie creatures and more kinds of gum trees than you can imagine. Then Karen brought out the boas to let all us tourists hold. She put BOTH of them on me at once and I felt extremely well accessorized. (See below) They sure liven up an outfit. The Pepper family was there without a camera so I proceeded to be their official photographer. I couldn't let those seven kids go home without photos of them with the snakes. (A friend in Italy once dubbed me the patron saint of photographers and I take the responsibility of this role very seriously...) Then Karen brought out Bindy, the wombat, named after Steve Irwin's daughter, and more photo sessions took place. (3228 - Bindy burped and proceeded to fall asleep in my arms just like a little baby human. How sweet is that?) To top this all off, we then marched over to the kangaroo court and fed the kangaroos. One had a little Joey (baby kangaroo) in its pouch. Photo at the top of this page. It looked so funny all folded up with its legs sticking up out of the pouch. Not exactly image I'd seen in books with just the little head popping out.

 

Monday it rained but we still toured a bit. We ended up at Pebbly Beach, north of here. It's off the beaten path and a place where the birds are supposed to be very friendly to humans and come greet you upon your arrival. The birds were hiding from the weather, but the kangaroos were out there feeding along the beach with no concern for the rain. I counted at least six. I feel rather lucky to have seen so many kangaroos up close.

 

I finished Bill Bryson's book (Downunder) and HIGHLY recommend it to anyone who wants to learn more about Australia, it's history and it's unique animals and plants, while laughing the whole way through. One night in Canberra I was watching the telly (TV) and thought I should turn it off in and get back to reading the Bryson book. So I grabbed the remote and hit the power button. However, the button I hit turned out to be the channel turner and voila, there was Bill Bryson on Australian TV, being interviewed! I'd happened upon "Tuesday night book club" and he was talking about his latest book about his childhood in Iowa. What a treat. 

 

Have I mentioned that I got a cold when I left Sydney? I probably haven't because of these great horse-size pills I've been taking have worked wonders in helping me feel okay. "EaseAcold" is an herbal miracle. An Aussie product from NSW. 

 

Well, I'm back in Sydney now and it's raining. I flew in yesterday from Moruya, a tiny place south of Malua Bay in a tiny plane. Awaiting me at George's was a box of Girl Scout cookies from my friend Bart in LA. He wanted to make sure I didn't forget about the great things in the US. We devoured then.

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